Acer palmatum 'Aratama' Japanese Maple

Set your zone to show the watering rhythm for your climate.

Containers in cold zones still need slightly moist roots; do not store them bone dry through winter.

In Zone 5, water well before winter if fall is dry, then avoid saturated soil during freeze-thaw cycles.

In Zones 6-7, deep water weekly during establishment when rainfall is lacking; established trees usually need help only in dry spells.

In Zone 8, check soil often in summer heat. Mulch and slow deep watering prevent scorch better than frequent shallow watering.

In Zone 9, containers and newly planted trees may need checks every 1 to 2 hot days. Keep moisture even, not soggy.

Heat stress can exceed what watering can fix if the cultivar is not rated for your zone.

Across zones, avoid wet feet. Japanese maples decline quickly in saturated soil.

Cold sites need sharp drainage so winter water does not freeze around roots.

Cold sites need sharp drainage so winter water does not freeze around roots.

In Zones 6-7, a native-soil planting hole with compost blended into the backfill is usually enough when drainage is good.

In warm zones, organic mulch and soil structure help keep roots cool while still allowing oxygen into the root zone.

In warm zones, organic mulch and soil structure help keep roots cool while still allowing oxygen into the root zone.

In warm zones, organic mulch and soil structure help keep roots cool while still allowing oxygen into the root zone.

Set your zone for the safest exposure recommendation.

Cold-edge sites can use more sun, but shelter the tree from winter wind and late frost pockets.

Cold-edge sites can use more sun, but shelter the tree from winter wind and late frost pockets.

In Zones 6-7, morning sun with afternoon shade is the dependable placement for most cultivars.

In Zone 8, avoid hot afternoon sun, south-facing walls, and paved heat traps.

In Zone 9 or warmer, use bright filtered light or early morning sun only unless the exact cultivar is proven in your microclimate.

In Zone 9 or warmer, use bright filtered light or early morning sun only unless the exact cultivar is proven in your microclimate.

Use a slow-release, balanced or low-nitrogen fertilizer in early spring, then stop by early summer.

In cold-edge zones, never push late growth. Stop feeding by early summer so stems can harden before winter.

In cold-edge zones, never push late growth. Stop feeding by early summer so stems can harden before winter.

In Zones 6-7, established maples in good soil often need little or no fertilizer.

In warm zones, avoid fertilizing during summer heat. Water and shade do more for stress than fertilizer.

In warm zones, avoid fertilizing during summer heat. Water and shade do more for stress than fertilizer.

In warm zones, avoid fertilizing during summer heat. Water and shade do more for stress than fertilizer.

Do structural pruning during dormancy and keep summer work limited to small corrections.

In cold-edge zones, avoid heavy pruning just before severe cold. Remove winter dieback after you can see live buds.

In cold-edge zones, avoid heavy pruning just before severe cold. Remove winter dieback after you can see live buds.

In warmer zones, keep pruning light and avoid opening the canopy so much that inner branches are exposed to sunburn.

In warmer zones, keep pruning light and avoid opening the canopy so much that inner branches are exposed to sunburn.

In warmer zones, keep pruning light and avoid opening the canopy so much that inner branches are exposed to sunburn.

In warmer zones, keep pruning light and avoid opening the canopy so much that inner branches are exposed to sunburn.

Zone-specific frost guidance appears after your USDA zone is set.

Move containers to an unheated garage or cold frame after dormancy, or select a plant rated for your zone.

In Zone 5, protect young trees from drying winter wind and cover tender spring growth with breathable cloth during late frosts.

In Zones 6-7, late spring frosts are usually the bigger risk than deep winter cold once trees are established.

In warm zones, winter protection is less important than avoiding early leaf-out damage from warm spells followed by cold snaps.

In warm zones, winter protection is less important than avoiding early leaf-out damage from warm spells followed by cold snaps.

In warm zones, winter protection is less important than avoiding early leaf-out damage from warm spells followed by cold snaps.